Plumbing - Master Bathroom Renovation Project

Master Bathroom Renovation Project - Plumbing

Fig 11(a) Drain must to be leveled.

DRAIN:

2” drain pipe had to be cut about 2 inches to level with the bottom of the subfloor to install the new drain I bought (KOHLER K-9136-G Square Design Tile-In Shower Drain, Brushed Chrome).  Cutting was not easy because I had to use the saw while pulling the drain trap upward.  After the cut, the edge was ground to be the right angle using 4-1/2-Inch Small-Angle Grinder.  Once you are happy, stop there.  Do not glue it now!  You will have to glue it after laying the tar paper and metal lath later.  

Fig 11(b) Drain fits after cutting the PVC pipe. 

In order to match the colors of the faucets, I bought a new set of tub faucets in oil-rubbed bronze color.  The valves also had to be replaced to match with the new faucets.  Faucet valves and diverters had to be completely installed before I put the tile backerboards.






List of plumbing valves and trims I bought:

Pfister R89-7MBY Marielle Single-Control Shower Only Trim Kit, Tuscan Bronze
Pfister 0X8-310A Single Control Pressure Balance Tub/Shower Valve, Unfinished
Pfister 016-200Y Wall-Mount Slide Bar Shower System, Tuscan Bronze
Pfister 016-DT1Y Shower Diverter Trim Kit with Handle, Tuscan Bronze
Pfister 015-IWDX Two Way Diverter Valve, Unfinished
Delta Foundations BT2796-OB Roman Tub Trim, Oil Bronze
Delta Faucet R2707 Flexible Roman Tub Rough

TUB:

I cut the copper pipe to the spout and then shut off the water of the house to started working on the water inlet pipes.  The cold and hot valves are located in the weird position because of the rubber tube around the Whirpool tub.  

Fig 12. Old tub faucets
that is going to be replaced.

I did not want to solder near the rubber tube because it can melt things, so decided to use Shark-bites for the main water connections.  I soldered the copper pipes for all other locations.  I had to bend the output copper tubes from each faucet valve and connect to the T shape connector.  It was difficult to make them aligned with 90 degrees T connector.  I had to be very careful not to break the flexible copper pipe.  On the last elbow soldering, I was so excited about what I did.  I mistakenly turned on the water before the pipe was completely cooled down.  The solder at the last elbow cracked and started to leak!!!  WAIT UNTIL THE PIPES ARE AIR-COOLED. I had to remove the water in the pipe and re-solder again to fix it.  I should have waited longer until the pipe became cooler.

Fig 13(b) Side view of the tub valve.

Fig 13(a) New faucet valves after solder.  You can also see the Shark-bites behind the rubber pipe around the whirlpool tub.

Fig 14 Elbow at the spout.

Fig 15 New tub faucets after all.

SHOWER:

Fig 16(b) Time consuming job for the
diverter to hand-held shower spout.

Fig 16(a) Shower valve with diverter.

 The next day, I replaced the main shower water valve along with the diverter for the hand-held shower.  It was much difficult procedure than the tub, because I had to make sure the right depth of the valves from the finished wall.  I used Shark-bites on three of diverter valve connectors because I wanted to allow flexibility when installing the pipe to the main and the hand-held shower.  Due to the non-standard stud installation in my shower, I had to scrape the studs for the hand-held shower pipes.  It was very time consuming process.  I used various sizes of drill bits up to 5/8 inch bit as well as chisels. 

Fig 16(c) Completed shower valves.

The next step is to do the framing work including the water damage fixing.  I have a lot of things to cover so stay tuned.

To be continued...